Software user

Let's start with a bit of "history". Duino644 was designed to match with (plug into) the now-discontinued 2416 mono-color LED display from Sure Electronics. Wise Clock 3 board was designed to plug into the 3216 bi-color LED display from Sure. Both boards have a similar schematic, based on ATmega644, and they share similar features: RTC (DS3231) on I2C, SD card, piezo buzzer, 3 user buttons. There are a few differences between the 2 boards: Duino644 has IR receiver, connected on D2, whereas Wise Clock 3 has the Plus button on D2 and no IR receiver; Wise Clock 3 has D11 connected to pin 2 (CLK) of the 3216 display; on Duino644 , since the 2416 display does not require an input on pin 2, D11 is not connected. Our goal is to adapt the "old"  Duino644  board to the 3216 bi-color LED display and run the  Wise Clock 3  software on it. This is easily achieved by doing the following hardware hacks: 1. connect the processor's pin 17 to pin 2 of the display'

I recently bought the 5mm LED display from Sure Electronics ( same datasheet as the 3mm LED display), just to see how it would work with the Wise Clock 3 board (so I can answer the questions related to this combination). As expected, just plug the Wise Clock 3 board into the "INPUT" connector of the display (as shown in the photo below), and everything should work. Since you may not want the board to stick out, a better solution would be to connect the two using the ribbon cable provided with the display (you would need to replace the 2x8-pin female header with a a 2x8-pin male header on the Wise Clock 3 board though). Update (Jul 20, 2014): Photos on how to connect the Wise Clock 4 board to the 5mm display using the ribbon cable can be found here . This is a huge display. I think it may be visible from 30 meters away (can you imagine Wise Clock 3 in a public plaza?!). Save on other technologies by using Lenovo coupons . Related posts: Introducing Wise Clock 3

Although ClockTHREE v2 is yet to be officially introduced by the Wyolum team, I could not resist the temptation of showing off this beautiful new board. Compared with v1 , v2 has a few new features worth mentioning: it can accommodate both piranha RGB LEDs and 10mm RGB LEDs (common anode); as real time clock, supports DS1307 , DS3231 and ChronoDot and wyolum's own rtcBob ; three kinds of different coin battery holders (for RTC backup battery) are supported; the power socket can be mounted in 3 different places; no more  tweaking of the terminals is required when using the 10mm RGB LEDs. The other great features are intact: - relatively easy to build for such a large and complex kit, with well-written documentation, both on-line and on PCB's silkscreen; - Arduino (ATmega328)-compatible: uses Arduino IDE for sketch upload; - display consists of 16x10 RGB LEDs + 16x2 single-colour LEDs; - on-board speaker/buzzer for the alarm; - word-clock functionality, user-settable tim

Want to build the Night and Day clock as shown by Justin ? Here is how we can help (and this is the exact reason why we described Wise Clock 3 as "highly hackable"): 1.   If you already have Wise Clock 3 , buy just the " Night and Day add-on kit ", which includes the world map printed on thick velum paper; one thin (1.5mm) transparent acrylic laser-cut plate; You will need to upload the Night and Day sketch yourself (read about the process here ).   (US$10, free shipping to North America)   (US$12, free shipping anywhere in the world) 2.   If you don't have Wise Clock 3 already, you can order the " Night and day add-on kit " alongside either the board kit or the complete kit . In this case, we will upload the sketch onto the processor for you.

Update Nov 2, 2011 Find an update to this post here . Some time ago I purchased several shields for powering Arduinos from Li-Ion batteries. They are: 5V DC-DC step-up power pack from nuelectronics.com Li-Ion battery shield from cutedigi.com Solar charger shield  v0.9 from seeedstudio (no longer offered and replaced by v2.0 ). My main requirement for such a shield was to have Arduino-form factor, so that I can just plug it into the Arduino, with no extra work required. Ideally, it would also have an on-board (attached) battery of at least 1000mAh. Considering that the height of the headers in an Arduino shield is about 8mm and the space between them is about 43mm, the dimensions of the battery should not exceed 50mm x 43mm x 8mm. None of the three solutions presented here met this requirement, at least not without modifications. 1. 5V DC-DC step-up power pack This "power pack" shield comes with an on-board (attached) 1500mAh Li-Poly battery. The battery is wider than 43mm,